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Surfing
Surfing The Big Kahuna
![]() This Surfboard is a great fusion between the wave catching ability of a longboard and the snappy responsiveness of a shortboard. It's a little bit of the best of both worlds.
Wave action.
Formation of Waves
What Causes Waves?
The winds cause waves on the surface of the ocean (and on lakes). The wind transfers some of its energy to the water, through friction between the air molecules and the water molecules. Stronger winds (like storm surges) cause larger waves. You can make your own miniature waves by blowing across the surface of a pan of water.
Waves of water do not move horizontally, they only move up and down (a wave does not represent a flow of water). You can see a demonstration of this by watching a floating buoy bob up and down with a wave; it does not, however, move horizontally with the wave. See the animation below.
Tsunamis (incorrectly called tidal waves) are different from surface waves; they are caused by underwater earthquakes, volcanic eruptions, or landslides.
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